Quickly jump to a specific shooting mode with 3D Touch Now scrub through all the shots, tap the ones you like then tap Done you’ll be given the choice of saving everything or just the ones you selected, and in the latter case all the other, rubbish shots get deleted. Of course this uses up loads of space on your device, but once you get a quiet moment go to that burst of shots in your Camera Roll and tap Select. You can do the same with your iPhone, and it’s great for getting the perfect shot of your kid grinning or your dog’s guilty look when you discover him tearing up a cushion.Īll you do is hold the shutter down (whichever shutter you use) and let the camera just keep shooting. One of the reasons pros are able to get such great portrait shots for magazine covers is because some take many dozens or hundreds of shots and just pick the one that captures a fleeting expression or a moment of delight or seriousness. With this, so you’re not actually pressing a shutter when you’re taking a shot and so shaking the camera with the simple act of doing so, you enable the timer, press the shutter, then in the two seconds before the camera actually takes the shot, brace yourself and hold the iPhone firmly. Or you can use the two-second self-timer.
You can reduce camera shake with some old-fashioned techniques that literally stop your hands from moving as much: pushing the side of your body against a vertical surface to steady it, resting your elbows on a low wall, or even simply bracing your iPhone by holding it in both hands and tucking your elbows into your body.
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(The 6 Plus and 6s Plus have optical image stabilization to help mitigate this.) To compensate for the low light it will often take longer exposures, and so if you’re not holding your iPhone completely still the scene will get a bit smeared. (See the last section for more on tripods.)Īlthough things have improved dramatically, the iPhone can still struggle in low light, such as at dusk or indoors. You might be able to prop your iPhone up against something for these, but consider a tripod for more control and better results if the shot is important. There’s a self-timer on the iPhone as well, either a two-second one-more on this below-and a 10-second one which is great for those press-the-shutter-run-back-into-shot-then-hold-a-grimace-way-past-the-point-you-think-it-should-have-triggered shots.
You can use the physical volume buttons on the side of your iPhone to take the shot rather than the big onscreen button-handy if you’re holding the phone at an awkward angle-but this also extends to headphones (including the bundled ones) that have inline volume controls on the cable. Tap anywhere on the image to unlock them again.
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To do this, tap and hold on the screen you’ll see a series of contracting rectangles around your finger which is your cue that the exposure and focus are now locked even if you move the camera a little or to a completely different part of the scene. Usually the iPhone will focus and expose a shot fresh each time, since that is indeed what you usually want, but there are times, usually for creative reasons, that you want to lock the focus and exposure. You can do this on an iPhone too, but it’s much less technical tap on your subject, then drag the little brightness (sunburst) symbol next to the focus square up to make the picture brighter, or down to make it darker. Traditional (and now of course digital) photography has a concept called exposure compensation, the idea that you let the camera decide how best to expose the scene, but then you give it a nudge-expressed usually in thirds of a “stop”-brighter or darker, to better reflect the shot you want to take.
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